Day 41 - 42 (Last 2 days)

My last 2 days of cycling, unable to decide whether to be glad or sad

Day 41

Was a tough ride of 75 km's, from Bodega Bay to Stinson beach. A fellow rider along the way told me I would like the ride into Stinson beach it was all down hill, a diplomatic way of telling me there was a big hill just before Stinson Beach.

I also met another rider from San Francisco and discussing dumping my bike, she suggested I donate it to 'Pedal Revolution', a non profit organisation.

The ride was pretty scenic, but I unfortunately had very little photographic proof.

Day 41 and my last cycle, I left my room to rain. I was very tempted to call an Uber. I waited an hour and it had cleared a bit so I set off. I had no chance of easing into the ride which started with the biggest single climb of the whole trip. The roads were wet as I got to one hairpin with a stupid angle, I got off and pushed my bike round the hairpin, a Harley came from the other direction, the lady smiled at me as they went past, I was watching as they went round the corner they lost control and went into the barrier. I slowed down other vehicles and then helped them lift the bike. They hadn't been going fast so no one had any serious injuries. If not for the barrier it would have been very serious.

As soon as I got over the mountain and started coming down I hit the outskirts of San Francisco. It had cleared slightly with the sun coming out every now and then. Crossing the golden gate bridge was madness. Thousand of cyclists many of whom could hardly ride all riding across the bridge. The walkway on the one side of the bridge was for pedestrians and the walkway on the other side for cyclist. I was riding against the traffic as the majority of cyclists were coming from San Fransisco. They would often start overtaking see you coming in the opposite direction and not get back in. I got to my apartment by 3, time for a shower and then a taxi to explore San Francisco.

I had a couple of days in San Francisco to relax, deliver my bike to 'pedal Revolution', then do some shopping, the first day was overcast all day, the final day the sun came out at about lunch time and it ended up being a beautiful day.  I did some shopping had a late lunch at 'Fisherman's wharf'.

Looking back at the trip some parts had been tough. I was to be going home slightly fitter, slightly lighter and a lot more relaxed, taking lots of memories with me. It was sad that it was ending, but I was looking forward to getting home seeing my family, and getting back to work.

Day 38 - 40

Day 38 was a short ride, I had thoughts of doing 80 km's but my heart was not in it, my energy levels were ok but not great. I had expected my fitness levels to have improved way more than they had and was definitely leaning towards taking a slow ride to San Francisco, spending a couple of days there before flying to Orange County just south of LA, for a few days with my brother at Laguna Beach.

My bike had taken a pounding and one major problem was that a couple of the teeth on gear 2 of my front sprocket had broken and it was slipping in that gear, forcing me to stick to either 1st or 3rd gears.

On the up side, my pants which at the start of this trip had been tight were Marjory loose, I needed to make a new hole in my belt as it was to big, judging by my belt, I had lost between 4 and 6 cm's and I was looking forward to seeing how much weight I had lost.

Day 39

This part of the coast is really beautiful, a very rugged coast line, not very populated. There was very little accommodation available, which was all very expensive, but very different from the rest of the States, lots of complimentary wine, and more like guest houses. Most of the places I had stayed in were real gems. but none of the accomodation had laundry which had become a problem as I had only 2 days worth of clean clothes left. I scoured the internet trying to find a place with Laundry, the only place that I could find was in Bodega bay but they were full for that night. So I not to unhappily had to reduce my distances even further so as to be in Bodega Bay one night later, hence that day was a very scenic but meagre 30 km's to the town of Jenner on the "Russian River". The previous night I had made the decision to stop at San Francisco so I was no longer in any rush. At Jenner I found a lovely cabin which was basic, but had beautiful views of the river and the beach. But no WiFi and no cell phone signal so wasn't able to tell the family I had got there safely.

Day 40, washing day, it didn't even seem worth getting my cycling gear on for the 18 km's from Jenner to Bodega bay my least mileage on this trip. I was in Bodega bay by about 12, for the 3rd time in last 5 days I was given a complimentary bottle of wine, the previous bottles were half bottles, this was a full bottle. After showering, I did my washing and then looked for accommodation for the next night Stinson Beach about 78 km's. I then had a planned hop of about 42 km's the day afterwards, to the apartment that I had booked in San Francisco for 3 nights.

This had been an uneventful 3 days and I hoped the same would not apply to my time in San Francisco.

I did not want to carry my complimentary bottle of wine the next day so I was forced to open it and used the time while sipping my wine to update my blog, what I had to go thru to reduce my load.

I was getting close to the end and had to decide whether to dump my bike or bring it back to SA. I had bought the bike for R5000 and it would  cost me about R4000 to get it to LA and then home, so it was a bit of a no brainer, I had to dump it.

Day 35 - 37

Day 35.

Leaving the Westport hotel, I felt it had been more like a guesthouse than a hotel, and they had made me feel, more like a welcome guest than a client. The staff always had time for a 5 minute chat, and any request was met with a smile, they went absolutely out of there way to make sure my stay was comfortable and pleasurable.

What a contrast day 35 ride was to day 34, the days rest had made all the difference, I had planned it to be a short ride to Mendocino 40 km's away. The ride was very hilly but my energy levels were great and it was easy to get into a routine, even the very steep sections were fine, just a matter of getting down into lowest gear regulating my effort and then chugging my way up and over the hill. I took regular breaks and marvelled over the brilliant views, while taking pics. I really enjoyed the ride my legs were still a bit sore, but even that didn't damper my spirits. In contrast to day 34, when I was absolutely exhaustion, driven only by the need to find somewhere half decent to stop and recuperate.

Mendocino was a lovely little town and I was staying at the Mendocino Hotel, which was old, lots of antique furniture it had shared bathrooms but that just added to its old style feel. It had a lovely old pub which was bussing with activity even though it was only 3 in the afternoon. I had stopped for a taco at Fort Brag 16 km's before Mendocino, so I didn't need lunch but after showering I went to the pub ordered a coke and a glass of wine and updated my blog.

They had a musical festival in Mendocino and the town was very busy, I met a few interesting people and had a few to many glasses of wine.

The next morning I went down to breakfast at 8. I was hoping to get on the road by 8.45. As soon as I got to breakfast I was met with the sight of rain, I took my time with breakfast hoping it would clear, in 45 minutes it had not let up in the least. The idea of doing a tough 80 km's ride in the rain was grim, I decided to see if I could stay another day. I went to reception, but they were fully booked, I went back to my room and gathered my bags to checkout. When I got back down they told me they had just had a cancellation. I jumped at the chance and phoned to change my accommodation at Gualala for that night. The chances of being able to make it all the way to Laguna were rapidly slipping away, and I knew that would need to make a decision as to whether to stop at San Francisco. The whole day I didn't feel great, I was hoping it was not the start of flu.

Day 36

I had changed my accommodation at Gualala from Saturday to Monday night which  meant 2 easy days averaging 40 km's. I took a slow ride, I had 2 options, I could stop at Elk or point Arena. I got to Elk a tiny town and found a stunning Inn so booked in, leaving 53 km's to cycle the next day. Alot of America is so stereotypical but I definitely feel this area breaks the mould.

Day 37

I was not feeling great and my energy levels were low. This should have been an easy ride but ended up being relatively tough, but very beautiful.

This part of the coast is seriously rugged and tough riding with very little flat and lots of very steep inclines.

If I wanted to be in Laguna by the 22nd of July, I had 11 days left, probably 10 riding days, definitely not enough to get all the way to Laguna which was just over a 1000 km's away. I had a couple of options either ride as far as I could and make a plan to get the last few hundred km's, or stop at San Francisco and take a very welcome holiday (excuse the pun) for a few days before flying to Orange County. The only decision I had made was try increase distances again and make a decision when I got to San Francisco.

That said I had planned to try and make Bodega Bay the next day about 78 km's.

Day 32 - 34

Day 32.

I left Eureka at about 8, headed for Meyers Flat about 78 km's, the ride was fairly flat. At about 40km's I turned onto the 'Avenue of the Giants'. A few days previously a cyclist had suggested I do this scenic route. True to its word  the last 32 km's was riding through incredible old Redwood forests with an incredible number of giant redwood trees. About 6 km's before Meyers Flat I got to the 'Humboldt Redwoods state park'. The campsites had been setup in the middle of the forest, and done in such a way as not to detract or diminish the beauty all around. The idea of camping in the middle of the forest sounded way more appealing than a motel, the temperature had also increased.

My first night at a hiker/biker campsite, what can I say but weird, almost a parallel world, with such a diverse group of people. This trip seems to go in cycles of meeting lots of people, to not really having any decent conversation with anyone, and the last few days I had been quite lonely. When I arrived at the hiker biker site there were 2 tents already up, but no one was around. I setup my tent, and as I had finished a guy from one of the tents arrived. First take he was friendly. He told me he was making a pot that night, he had potatoes and pork, he had more than enough did I want some, I offered to add a couple of cans of chilli to the pot. He asked if I had a burner which I brought out with the tag still on. I said I was going to shower, he complained that showering cost 2 quarters for a couple of minutes and he only had 3 quarter so he wouldn't shower that day, that was first warning sign things were going to get weird. He then asked me if I smoked, I said 'I was vaping instead of smoking'. He replied 'I am talking about weed'. Later he was explaining he is a hitch hiker not a hiker, and pretty much survives from day to day often holding up a cardboard sign asking for donations. Later on in the evening when he was quite stoned he saw my light, I have a light about the size of a half tennis ball, but it gives out a huge amount of light, and is rechargeable, using a micro USB cable. He decided he wanted to try and trade me weed for my light, the more I said no the more weed he would add to the negotiation table.

The shower as per normal was great, it always makes you feel more human, while I was showering another biker arrived he had cycled 160 km's wow. He was probably in his late 30's he was staying at hiker/biker sites most of the time, but stayed in motels every now and then. 

Another couple of cyclists arrived, both had also cycled on there own. The one guy a young guy seemed full of fun. He told me he had just washed his socks that he had been wearing for a week, he commented they were really stiff. He stayed only in state park hiker biker sites. On a daily basis he bought a bottle of jam, peanut butter and a loaf of bread, that was his daily diet. He explained that would cost him under 10 dollars, the hiker/biker site was 5 dollars so he could get away with spending 15 dollars a day. He had to supplement that with a bit of weed. He commented that his boss had given him as much time as he needed to do the trip as long as he sent pictures.

The last guy seemed rather private and didn't get involved at all. The next morning I had a chat to him discussed that days ride, I had made it very clear I wouldn't ride further than Leggett and he agreed, the other had all said they would be riding further.

Later the couple from the first tent arrived they were a German couple had been hiking for about 6 weeks, had now rented a car so they could see more of the states.

I found it interesting think none of the cyclists cooked for themselves, I was far more organised as far as camping gear than any of them, I just carried it for the fun.

At about 9.30 I decided I had, had enough of an education to the world of the American hiker biker
World. I packed up all my stuff cleaned all my dishes and went to bed.

The next morning I couldn't find my cooker, I finally found it with the pot from the hitch hiker, a bit concerning because I remember very clearly putting it in my tent with my other gear.


Day 33

The ride from Meyers Flat to Leggett was about 78 km's but lots of hills. Because I had camped and not had my normal routine of checking where I would go the next day, I sent Mandy a msg and asked her to check if there were motels in Leggett which she confirmed. I planned to stay 2 nights in Leggett taking a rest day, I felt that I was hitting the bottom of the bucket as far as my energy levels were concerned and that was before I hit the mountains. It was seriously hot and the total assent was 1700 metres, excluding a couple of hills that I had walked, I arrived at Leggett exhausted with absolutely no cell phone signal and no motel in sight. I spoke to the attendant at the grocery store to be told the closest motel was 20 miles back, my heart sank. There was a state park a few km's back, so I grudgingly rode back to the state park for day 2 at a hiker/biker site.

The quiet guy from the previous night was there and a old guy seemed homeless. He carried on telling me that the hiker biker sites only allowed you to stay for 3 nights and he was on night 2.

With absolutely no signal, I wasn't able to message home and I knew that they would have been panicking.

Day 34

I was in a bad way and not looking forward to the hills ahead. I had been riding inland for a few days. The trip from Leggett took me back to the coast. Leaving the 101 to follow number 1 for the rest of the trip. The day started with a 400 metre assent followed by a massive downhill to almost sea level, then another huge climb and then a downhill to the pacific coast line. The first time I got cell phone signal was as when I arrived the coast at about 1.30 and I sent a message home. I had run out of water at the top of the last hill, and I had only eaten a couple of protein bars all day.

Back at the coast and it was freezing again. The last 8 km's along the coast to the first town Westport took me about 60 minutes and was absolutely hell. Cycling a couple of km's then taking a 10 minute break. I filled up my water in a state park along the way. I was desperately hoping there was somewhere to stay in Westport, I knew that it would be absolute hell if I had to continue to Fort Bragg a mere 24 km's further. Westport had a population of a few hundred so I was not hugely hopeful. I stopped at a cafe for a sandwich, a few hundred metres past the cafe was the Westport Hotel, a beautiful quant hotel, with 6 rooms, I got a stunning room with a veranda overlooking the see, for 2 days and a desperately needed rest day. The last 2 nights at hiker biker sites were an absolutely incredible, but wow it was nice to book into a beautiful hotel. The staff were incredibly friendly and looked after me, they didn't have coin operated laundry but they did my laundry free of charge. Soon after arriving I had a shower, then sat on my balcony overlooking the pacific updating my blog while sipping on my complimentary bottle of wine, an absolute contrast to what I had been going through 2 hours before, also an absolute contrast to the previous 2 nights camping.

We take holidays to experience different places, people, cultures and sights, the last 3 days have been seriously tough but wow seriously rich in all of the above.

Map Day 17 - 34

  

Day 29 - 31

Day  29 to 31 were a serious slog, I had been trying to average 75 km's a day and my body did not feel like it was ready, as my legs got more sore and my energy levels dwindled, so did my motivation. I had to keep reminding myself of the end game, getting fit and loosing more weight. There would also be a sense of achievement and thousands of memories. All said multiples times daily I felt like giving up and going back to cycling 45 km's which had seemed relatively easy. I had chosen a bad time for the push because the hills had turned into mountains. This week I had cycled about 60% more than any other week, I was getting there just needed to hang in.

Day 29, I rode from Gold Beach out of Oregon and into California to Crescent city. The first 42 km's to Brookings was very tough with lots of hills. I had started the day by replacing another tube, a slow puncture. I replaced the tyre pumped it up when I tired to disconnect the pump all the air came out. I tried pumping it up again without success. Finally decided to try another tube. The new tube worked fine the other tube the valve had broken away from the tube.

 I got to Brookings about 1 and stopped for lunch. I left after 2, I suddenly realised that I was running very late, I still had another 45 km's so I would probably get to the motel at about 6. I was hoping for a tail wind but it wasn't to be, I was given a head wind but luckily it was gentle. I got to the motel at about 5.30 tired and looking forward to relaxing.

Day 30 my fitness had seemed to take 2 to 3 steps forward and then 1 to 2 steps back. Since I  had upped the distances my energy levels seemed non existent.  The previous day the first half was fine but the second half was just a slog, day 30 was just a slog from beginning to end. It didn't help that it started with a 10 mile mountain, with an average gradient of about 5%. It was also cold and misty, when I got to Orick on the outskirts of the Redwood national park, about 10 km's from my planned stop, it started to rain. I had been planning to camp but instead I found a very doggy motel and checked in. The next day would now be 78 km's instead of 68 km's and I expected it to be a very long hard slog. I guess my body needed to get used the extended distances. If I wanted to make it to The Laguna Beach i would just have to battle through it.

At least the scenery was incredible, riding through the redwood forest was an absolute treat, i had expected them to be spectacular but what surprised me is the sheer number of these giant. I had expected a lot of smaller trees and every now and then a giant, but there were giants everywhere. That said I wasn't sure whether I had seen any of the biggest trees yet.

Day 31

I woke up it was foggy and cold. I started cycling at just after 7.30, I was cold and a bit miserable. But to my surprise my energy levels seemed way better. At about 12, I was riding on a sand road bicycle/pedestrian path up this hill, there were 2 cyclists, I saw a broken chain so I thought they had a problem and stopped. I very quickly realised I shouldn't be chatting to these guys. There was an open flick knife under the bench. The one guy had a huge gash on his head,  the other guy had a smaller bike tied on to his bike and he quickly told me someone didn't want this bike so he was taking it. While the other told me the story that at 2am this car had swerved and driven in to him and he bashed his head onto a rock. I quietly excused myself and left. Just after 1 the sun had come out and the afternoon was great. I got to Eureka at about 3.30, by chance I found a bicycle shop so got an extra tyre and got them to tighten the spokes of my front wheel, a couple had seemed slightly loose. I hoped my energy levels were a sign of things to come, The next day I was going to cycle to Myers Flat also about 78 km's.

I could definitely tell that I had lost a few cm's and the extra distances and time on the saddle would be helping. My wind breaker that had been slightly tight was very loose and a pair of shorts that had fitted quite well looked way to big. I was really looking forward to getting onto a scale, hopefully I would not be disappointed.