I left Eureka at about 8, headed for Meyers Flat about 78 km's, the ride was fairly flat. At about 40km's I turned onto the 'Avenue of the Giants'. A few days previously a cyclist had suggested I do this scenic route. True to its word the last 32 km's was riding through incredible old Redwood forests with an incredible number of giant redwood trees. About 6 km's before Meyers Flat I got to the 'Humboldt Redwoods state park'. The campsites had been setup in the middle of the forest, and done in such a way as not to detract or diminish the beauty all around. The idea of camping in the middle of the forest sounded way more appealing than a motel, the temperature had also increased.
My first night at a hiker/biker campsite, what can I say but weird, almost a parallel world, with such a diverse group of people. This trip seems to go in cycles of meeting lots of people, to not really having any decent conversation with anyone, and the last few days I had been quite lonely. When I arrived at the hiker biker site there were 2 tents already up, but no one was around. I setup my tent, and as I had finished a guy from one of the tents arrived. First take he was friendly. He told me he was making a pot that night, he had potatoes and pork, he had more than enough did I want some, I offered to add a couple of cans of chilli to the pot. He asked if I had a burner which I brought out with the tag still on. I said I was going to shower, he complained that showering cost 2 quarters for a couple of minutes and he only had 3 quarter so he wouldn't shower that day, that was first warning sign things were going to get weird. He then asked me if I smoked, I said 'I was vaping instead of smoking'. He replied 'I am talking about weed'. Later he was explaining he is a hitch hiker not a hiker, and pretty much survives from day to day often holding up a cardboard sign asking for donations. Later on in the evening when he was quite stoned he saw my light, I have a light about the size of a half tennis ball, but it gives out a huge amount of light, and is rechargeable, using a micro USB cable. He decided he wanted to try and trade me weed for my light, the more I said no the more weed he would add to the negotiation table.
The shower as per normal was great, it always makes you feel more human, while I was showering another biker arrived he had cycled 160 km's wow. He was probably in his late 30's he was staying at hiker/biker sites most of the time, but stayed in motels every now and then.
Another couple of cyclists arrived, both had also cycled on there own. The one guy a young guy seemed full of fun. He told me he had just washed his socks that he had been wearing for a week, he commented they were really stiff. He stayed only in state park hiker biker sites. On a daily basis he bought a bottle of jam, peanut butter and a loaf of bread, that was his daily diet. He explained that would cost him under 10 dollars, the hiker/biker site was 5 dollars so he could get away with spending 15 dollars a day. He had to supplement that with a bit of weed. He commented that his boss had given him as much time as he needed to do the trip as long as he sent pictures.
The last guy seemed rather private and didn't get involved at all. The next morning I had a chat to him discussed that days ride, I had made it very clear I wouldn't ride further than Leggett and he agreed, the other had all said they would be riding further.
Later the couple from the first tent arrived they were a German couple had been hiking for about 6 weeks, had now rented a car so they could see more of the states.
I found it interesting think none of the cyclists cooked for themselves, I was far more organised as far as camping gear than any of them, I just carried it for the fun.
At about 9.30 I decided I had, had enough of an education to the world of the American hiker biker
World. I packed up all my stuff cleaned all my dishes and went to bed.
The next morning I couldn't find my cooker, I finally found it with the pot from the hitch hiker, a bit concerning because I remember very clearly putting it in my tent with my other gear.
Day 33
The ride from Meyers Flat to Leggett was about 78 km's but lots of hills. Because I had camped and not had my normal routine of checking where I would go the next day, I sent Mandy a msg and asked her to check if there were motels in Leggett which she confirmed. I planned to stay 2 nights in Leggett taking a rest day, I felt that I was hitting the bottom of the bucket as far as my energy levels were concerned and that was before I hit the mountains. It was seriously hot and the total assent was 1700 metres, excluding a couple of hills that I had walked, I arrived at Leggett exhausted with absolutely no cell phone signal and no motel in sight. I spoke to the attendant at the grocery store to be told the closest motel was 20 miles back, my heart sank. There was a state park a few km's back, so I grudgingly rode back to the state park for day 2 at a hiker/biker site.
The quiet guy from the previous night was there and a old guy seemed homeless. He carried on telling me that the hiker biker sites only allowed you to stay for 3 nights and he was on night 2.
With absolutely no signal, I wasn't able to message home and I knew that they would have been panicking.
I was in a bad way and not looking forward to the hills ahead. I had been riding inland for a few days. The trip from Leggett took me back to the coast. Leaving the 101 to follow number 1 for the rest of the trip. The day started with a 400 metre assent followed by a massive downhill to almost sea level, then another huge climb and then a downhill to the pacific coast line. The first time I got cell phone signal was as when I arrived the coast at about 1.30 and I sent a message home. I had run out of water at the top of the last hill, and I had only eaten a couple of protein bars all day.
We take holidays to experience different places, people, cultures and sights, the last 3 days have been seriously tough but wow seriously rich in all of the above.
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| Map Day 17 - 34 |
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